Beloved local spots—experience the richness of daily life in Nemuro

An abundant richness woven into Nemuro’s daily life

Shinichi Mikami is a kelp fisher born and raised in Habomai, Nemuro City. He became a fisher at the same time as graduating from high school. “This environment suits me,” he shares. “Waking up early and being able to see the ocean is second nature—I can’t leave this place.”

Under the name mikashin, he also works as a woodworker. What began as a simple hobby soon blossomed into a deep passion with Mr. Mikami honing his skills and teaching himself the art of woodturning. Through this process, he came to see creating handicrafts as a form of self-expression. Experimenting with different wood species and perfecting their shapes and textures, he felt a growing desire to create works unique to Nemuro, using Nemuro’s own timber. He was particularly drawn to Erman’s birch, a tree known for its soft, subtly pink bark. Although these trees typically grow at high altitudes (higher than Japanese white birch), in Nemuro they are a common sight even on the plains—a striking testament to the harsh climate that defines the region. Today, Mr. Mikami continues his craft by working with these materials that truly symbolize the spirit of his home.

▶He sources Nemuro-grown timber from local suppliers for his production.

▶One of Mr. Mikami’s pieces, WOOD BOTTLE Dakekanba (Erman’s birch).

Mr. Mikami lives in Habomai, a coastal area facing the Pacific Ocean. He explains that even within Nemuro, the climate here is distinct. “Habomai is known for its incredibly thick fog, with the area often shrouded in a heavy fog and being quite chilly from June to August. It’s also home to vast, precious landscapes like the Habomai Mire, where alpine plants grow.” He shares a glimpse into the local food culture that defines this seaside community. “A winter tradition here is for each household to prepare izushi (fermented fish and rice), using local fish like Pacific saury and salmon. Since everyone makes such large quantities, we usually share portions around each year. It’s interesting how the flavor is a little different in every home.”

Mr. Mikami’s favorite view is Cape Nosappu in winter. He explains that the landscape is the most beautiful in this season because the air is at its clearest. While the cape is famously associated with its sunrise, Mr. Mikami’s personal recommendation is visiting at night. He describes the experience of being enveloped by the sound of crashing waves while gazing up at a sky overflowing with stars as truly unforgettable. “The starry sky above Cape Nosappu is just stunning!” he says with a joyful smile.

According to Mr. Mikami, the richness of Nemuro consists of subtle, everyday scenes that a traveler might easily overlook on a single visit. As a fisher and a woodworker with a lifelong connection to this land, he shares a glimpse into the true heart of Nemuro.

Spot 1. Amataro

Wrapped in retro packaging, these palm-sized round cakes—known as oban-yaki—go by the name Amataro in Nemuro.

Opened in 1958, Amataro is currently run by its third-generation owner, Mr. Hirakawa, who has maintained the shop’s legacy since taking over from his father in 1996. While the store is famous for its generously filled, namesake Amataro cakes, it also serves steaming-hot meat buns and fluffy egg castella. To make the familiar snacks even more appealing, the shop is particular about its fillings. Alongside the traditional fillings, you’ll find eye-catching options like ham and mayonnaise Amataro and kimchi or extra spicy meat buns. “It’s more fun when there are various flavors to choose from, right?” says Mr. Hirakawa. “The mini meat bun and extra spicy options were born through requests from our customers.”

▶Generously sized, fluffy egg castella.

▶Prices even children can afford.

Whether enjoyed as a daily snack or offered as gifts for coworkers, Amataro has long been loved by Nemuro locals. “We’ve kept the original recipes, making our bean pastes and creams by hand while doing our best to avoid raising the price,” says Mr. Hirakawa. “We want to continue pleasing people with delicious flavors at affordable prices.”

▶Amataro mostly offers takeout, but there’s also an eat-in area inside the shop.

▶Another appeal is the retro packaging that hasn’t changed since the past.

It’s this commitment to timeless quality and simple accessibility that continues to win the hearts of locals.

【Mr. Mikami’s key highlight】

“If you’re looking for the definitive Nemuro gift, it’s Amataro. I’ve been eating these since I was a child. You can’t go wrong with the classic black bean paste, white bean paste, or custard cream. But, I personally love the cheese cream flavor. The thick, sweet filling is simply irresistible.”

Spot 2. Dosukoi

Located in a corner of the Hirokoji Shopping Street, Dosukoi is a bar-style izakaya with a vibrant energy, led by owner Kaori Mochizuki.

Born in Akkeshi and raised in Nemuro, Ms. Mochizuki worked in Sapporo after graduating high school before returning to her roots in Nemuro in 2013. She opened Dosukoi in 2016, drawing on her parent’s history in the restaurant industry. Her primary focus is creating a fun space that her guests can enjoy. “I was interested in hospitality and wanted to create a welcoming place for people who made the effort to visit Nemuro.” She shares that her restaurant is frequented not only by locals, but also many Nemuro new-comers who have moved here due to job transfers and other reasons.

▶The interior is warm with counter and table seating available.

▶Kaori Mochizuki has been running Dosukoi ever since 2016.

Including many original dishes, her menu is full of variety. Ms. Mochizuki shares that her standout dish is Dosukoi Zangi. This mouthwateringly satisfying dish is as impressive as it is delicious, featuring a whole, succulent chicken thigh fried to perfection with a peppery spice. “My parents also served zangi (Hokkaido fried chicken) at their restaurant,” she shares. “For a while, I’d been nurturing the idea that it’d be even more delicious if it was bigger. And just like that, it became my flagship item.”

▶Soup Curry, served with a choice of three types of broth, attracts many repeat customers. It’s also available for lunch.

▶Bigger-than-your-palm Dosukoi Zangi. Cut it with scissors to eat.

“Nemuro locals are so warm,” Ms. Mochizuki says beaming with joy. Dosukoi is a place where you can truly feel that warmth.

【Mr. Mikami’s key highlight】

“The shop is always lively, and Kaori’s bright personality is truly infectious—you can’t help but leave feeling energized. I’m also delighted that she uses some of my wooden creations to serve her guests.”

Spot 3. Habomai Fishery Cooperative Direct Sales Store

Naturally, the ultimate souvenir is something produced locally—at the Habomai Fishery Cooperative Direct Sales Store, you’ll find shelves filled with original products unique to the region.

The undisputed star is Habomai Kombu Shoyu (kelp soy sauce), which has continued to be a best-selling favorite since its debut in 1990. The Zeitaku Shiage (premium finish) version contains 20% more kelp and has become a flagship product in its own right. Furthermore, various products have developed around these core items. From soy sauce-flavored nori and rice crackers to canned goods and more, the sheer variety is astonishing. Product development is also spurred on by the innovative ideas of the staff themselves. With many locals frequenting store, it’s often said that everyone here is raised on Habomai Kombu Shoyu.

▶Products made with Habomai Kombu Shoyu feature the logo.

▶From kelp to make stock to frozen products, a wide variety of products are available.

This focus on product development is a unique and necessary challenge for the Fishery Cooperative. It began creating these goods to ensure a stable future for the local industry in the face of fluctuating fish catches due to changing climates and sea temperatures. Since renovating its facilities in 2022, the store has been actively contributing to regional promotion through initiatives such as educational tours.

▶Kelp ready to be shipped. The varieties harvested around Habomai are mostly Naga Kombu, Atsuba Kombu, and Nekoashi Kombu.

▶From the store, you can watch staff packing kelp.

Stocked with Habomai specialties featuring the rich flavor of locally-prized kelp, the store is a fun location for souvenir shopping.

【Mr. Mikami’s key highlight】
“This is the newest facility among Nemuro’s various fishery cooperatives, and I’m a member of the cooperative myself. Even as the conditions of the sea change year by year, the team here continues to innovate and develop new products.”