Etching fleeting beauty into memory—destinations imbued with seasonal charm

A sharp sense for the shifting seasons

After completing their training in Ashoro Town, Yasushi and Yuko Yokomine moved to Nemuro in January 2011. Today, they operate a small-scale, pasture-based dairy farm near Lake Furen. One of their grounding philosophies is staying in tune with the rhythms of their herd. “We keep a strict schedule, heading to the barn at the exact same time every day,” they explain. “By maintaining this routine, the cows naturally follow suit. Trying to force them to suit a human-centric schedule only makes things harder.” Raised in such a relaxed environment, these cows produce milk that serves as the raw ingredient for the cheeses crafted at Chikap, a boutique cheese factory run in a corner of the dairy farm by Ryota and Fumiko Kikuchi.

▶Yuko’s little sister, Fumiko moved to Nemuro with her husband after her sister said, “There’s a spot available here, why not run a cheese factory there?”

The Yokomine couple reveal that they hadn’t visited Nemuro before starting their farm. “We came here by chance after hearing that there was a farmer giving up their property.” Once settled, they found themselves captivated by the region’s unique natural terrain. “Most farms we’d seen were flat agricultural lands surrounded by mountains. But Nemuro is different,” they say. “Here, the farmlands stretch across the highlands, while forests thrive in the lower river basins. This topography, which is even rare for Hokkaido, is incredibly beautiful.”

▶In addition to cows, they also raise several chickens who roam freely across the pasture.

Living in such close proximity to the land allows the Yokomine couple to experience the changing seasons with a deeper sense of clarity. “Every year the seasons reveal themselves in a specific order. For example, spring begins with various wildflowers blooming, followed by a chorus of frogs. Even when the air is still cold, the signs of change appear bit by bit, until the warmth suddenly arrives in late May. The fact that the order doesn’t change is comforting.” This awareness of subtle shifts—the roadside flora, the sound of nature, and the scent of the wind—is part of the richness of living here. “Our cows’ behavior shifts with the seasons, too. You could say farmers are naturally sensitive to these transitions,” they add with a smile.

▶At dusk, the couple gaze fondly over their cows.

From the beautiful, gently swaying aquatic plants of Shunkunitai in summer to the winter arrival of white-tailed eagles, the subtle seasonal wonders shared by the Yokomine couple reveal the true heart of Nemuro. Living in harmony with the land, they capture the region in such a way that you’ll want to visit time and again.

Spot 1. Nemuro’s pastoral landscapes

In Nemuro’s cool climate, the livestock industry has thrived for generations, with a history of dairy farming dating back to the establishment of a national ranch in the early Meiji period (1868 to 1912). While dairy farming is conducted across Hokkaido, the sight of cattle grazing in the morning fog and vast green pastures contrasted with the vast blue ocean are scenes unique to Nemuro. During the grazing season, primarily from May to October, you can enjoy the uniquely soothing sight of the cows leisurely going about their day in this pristine habitat.

【The Yokomine couple’s key highlight】

“In summer, Nemuro is often shrouded in fog, and seeing the herd emerge from the mist is truly mystical. We love how the scenery completely transforms in just one day, with the fog lifting in the afternoon. As autumn arrives, the insects become fewer and the cows seem even more relaxed, as if they’re savoring the season themselves.”

Spot 2. Nemuro’s coastline

Bordered by both the Sea of Okhotsk and the Pacific Ocean, Nemuro’s coastline is a masterpiece of complexity and variety. Driving along the coastline, you’ll find rugged rocky reefs, steep cliffs, and quiet sandy beaches stretching for kilometers, revealing the “stillness” and “motion” of nature. The sea is closely linked to industry in this thriving fishing region where you can witness its unique seasonal fishing cycles: ports bustling with the spring catch of chum salmon and scallops, the summer shores covered in kelp, and the autumn nights illuminated by the lights of the Pacific saury fishing fleet. Nemuro’s coast reveals landscapes that are closely intertwined with daily life.

【The Yokomine couple’s key highlight】

“We particularly love the stretch of coastline from Hanasaki Port to Hamamatsu Coast and Cape Ochiishi. If the weather is especially clear, we often take the long way home along that route. It feels as if we’ve entered another world, and it never fails to refresh us.”

Spot 3. Bentenjima Island

“Regardless of the season, this is my favorite spot in Nemuro,” says Yasushi. He’s referring to Bentenjima Island, a small island floating in Nemuro Port that can be viewed in its entirety from the grounds of Kotohira Shrine. Though currently a quiet, uninhabited island, it’s an essential part of Nemuro’s history. Ancient shell mounds and pit dwellings prove that people once lived on the island. It’s also a site for various historical moments. In 1792, Russia’s first envoy to Japan, Adam Laxman anchored there when he visited Nemuro Port and Kahei Takadaya, an Edo period (1603-1868) merchant who dedicated his life to the development of Nemuro, built the Ichikishima Shrine on the island to pray for maritime safety and a bountiful catch. For the people of Nemuro, Bentenjima Island is a symbol of their city.

【The Yokomine couple’s key highlight】

“It’s our favorite place in Nemuro. The view alone is stunning, but when you look at it through the lens of history, it takes on a whole new meaning. Thinking about the people who came before us makes our own struggles feel small. Every time we see it, we are energized by the pioneering spirit of the people who built Nemuro.”