Not-to-miss spots in Nemuro, recommended by a local guest house

Connecting travelers to Nemuro, a city of abundant charm

Aiko Murata and Michael run Guest House Nemuroman. Originally from Nemuro, Aiko wanted to share the appeal of her hometown, so she opened the guest house in 2020 under the concept of “making people love Nemuro more.”

Michael, meanwhile, was born and raised in the United States. He first visited Nemuro as a university student. After researching the city in one of his classes, he decided to travel there himself. “It was winter when I first visited, and I remember feeling that it was a very quiet town where time seemed to pass slowly,” Michael says. “Also, everyone was so kind. The owner of the place I stayed took me around to all sorts of recommended spots in the city. I had a wonderful time.” After that first trip, Michael returned to Nemuro many times. He later stayed at Guest House Nemuroman as a volunteer, which is how he met Aiko. They married in 2023, and he now lives in Nemuro while working as an English teacher.

When asked what makes Nemuro so appealing, Michael answers: “The fish is incredibly good! Before coming here, I had this image of fish being kind of smelly. But the fish in Nemuro is so fresh, it’s completely different. Sashimi and sushi are great, of course, but my favorite is simmered slime flounder. And then there’s okijio sanma!” Okijio sanma refers to Pacific saury that has just been hauled up on the boat and sprinkled with salt right on board. “When you salt truly fresh Pacific saury, the flavor is on a whole new level,” adds Aiko. “You don’t often see it at izakaya (traditional Japanese pubs). It’s something you get directly from the fishers. It might be one of the special privileges of living here.” There are other fish dishes unique to Nemuro as well. “One is ika no kimodzuke. You dip squid sashimi into salted squid innards—similar to shiokara (salted fish innards)—and eat it that way. It’s a way of eating that you can only enjoy when you have access to fresh squid.”

▶Okijio sanma (left) and simmered slime flounder (right). Photo source: Guest House Nemuroman

The appeal of Nemuro according to Aiko lies in the deep connections shared among locals. “My mother has been running a coffee shop for 50 years now. She’s known her regular customers for half a century—they’re practically family. Every day she chats casually with her customers, and when local fishers share part of their catch, she divides it among everyone. In Nemuro, we live by helping one another. It’s a kind of give-and-take relationship unique to regional areas,” Aiko shares with a smile.

▶A snapshot of daily life in Nemuro, where regulars sit around the kitchen of a local izakaya

Guest House Nemuroman is a base that continues to connect travelers with the city. Listening to Aiko and Michael talk sparks a curiosity to explore Nemuro even deeper.

Spot 1. Torikko

Hirokoji Shopping Street is lined with izakaya. A red lantern swaying outside points the way to Torikko, a long-standing yakitori restaurant.

Torikko is currently run by the second-generation owner, Ms. Matsumiya. She took over the business in 1988 and has run this beloved local restaurant ever since. “I like places with counter seating. When you’re close to your customers, you can share all kinds of information, right? The real pleasure is hearing stories you’d never get to experience yourself. We’ve been able to continue thanks to our customers,” she says with a smile.

Torikko’s pride and joy is their yakitori (chicken skewers), which are prepared from scratch in-house and grilled to fragrant perfection over charcoal. She is particular about the ingredients: “If we grill other ingredients, it affects the flavor of the yakitori, so we only use chicken for our skewered items.” Each skewer is carefully grilled to order, one by one. Paired with side dishes that change daily, the tasty items are bound to make your drink go down easily.

▶Counter and table seating are available.

▶A red illuminated lantern hung outside the shop points the way.

As soon as the doors open, customers begin arriving one after another, quickly filling the counter seats. With yakitori in one hand and beer in the other, lively conversation flows—not only among friends, but also between customers and Ms. Matsumiya. Torikko is filled with a savory aroma coming from the charcoal grill and the sound of laughter. It is an important gathering place for the community.

【Guest House Nemuroman’s key highlight】
“It’s just so homey. Sometimes they’ll even say, Here, try this, and treat you to an extra dish. There are lots of regulars, and it’s so comfortable that you can’t help but linger.”

Spot 2. Nemuro Seafood Dining

Izakaya are great, but sometimes you just want to casually enjoy Nemuro’s seafood over lunch. When that’s the case, the place to visit is Nemuro Seafood Dining.

The owner, Haruki Yoshida, is a Nemuro local. He was inspired to open a restaurant after his father, who runs an accommodation business, gave him an idea. “He told me that it’d be nice if there was a place where tourists could enjoy seafood during the day. There are plenty of cafés and izakaya here, but not many places that serve seafood for lunch. So, I decided to give it a try.” He opened Nemuro Seafood Dining in 2023. As a place serving seafood from midday, it attracts not only tourists, but also people traveling for work.

▶The spacious interior features table and counter seating.

▶The restaurant is in the middle of town.

The signature dish is the Fish Set Meal, featuring fish selected from the market on the day. From simmered roughscale sole to Japanese smelt tempura, a variety of fish dishes grace the menu throughout the year. Centered on fish from Nemuro, around ten different kinds are featured over the course of a year. For an additional fee, you can also upgrade the miso soup to teppo-jiru (crab miso soup) made with Hanasaki crab—a welcome treat.

There is also a wide selection of à la carte dishes, such as Three Kinds Sashimi Platter and Aburi-Yaki, items that you grill right at your table. Recently, the menu also features more dishes made with Tanpopo Beef, a beef brand from neighboring Betsukai Town.

▶The à la carte menu features such a wide variety, you’ll be spoiled for choice. Recommended dishes include the Tanpopo Beef Roast & Salad and Round Pan-Fried Dumplings.

▶The generous Fish Set Meal that includes salad and side dishes.

“My father is also a chef, and the more he taught me, the more my repertoire grew,” Mr. Yoshida continues. “Nemuro has such clean air and water, but above all, the local produce is exceptional. I want to keep moving forward, drawing on the strength of these natural flavors.” He aims to share Nemuro’s bounty with many more people to come.

【Guest House Nemuroman’s key highlight】
“A standout point is that they serve set meals. You don’t have to go to an izakaya to enjoy fish, so we recommend it a lot, especially for people who don’t drink.”

Spot 3. Uncle & Tivoli

Uncle & Tivoli is a Western-style restaurant in Nemuro. It serves original dishes that make the most of locally sourced ingredients, inviting you to savor the character of the region.

One popular dish that truly captures the spirit of this seaside town is the Hanasaki Crab Cream Pasta. Generously topped with vibrant Hanasaki crab, every bite fills your mouth with its rich sweetness. The menu is packed with a tempting variety of other options, from charcoal-grilled seasonal seafood caught right here in Nemuro to crispy deep-fried chicken and kelp, leaving you delightfully spoiled for choice.

▶The interior includes counter seating that lets you watch the chef in action and traditional Japanese style seating with a recessed floor.

▶The restaurant can be found by looking for the cute illustration and bright orange signboard.

Another distinctive highlight of the restaurant is the variety of Ezo deer dishes on offer. Beyond the standard charcoal-grilled cuts and steaks, you can find venison Esukaroppu—a specialty rarely served anywhere else. The lean, low-fat venison cutlet is packed with umami and has a tender, succulent texture that pairs perfectly with the crispy breading. A drizzle of the shop’s original demi-glace sauce brings the whole dish together beautifully.

Uncle & Tivoli serve Western-style dishes crafted from the region’s bounty, inviting you to fully appreciate Nemuro’s climate and cuisine at a leisurely pace.

【Guest House Nemuroman’s key highlight】

“They serve cuisine distinct to Nemuro like roast beef-style venison and crab pizza. Since the menu is mainly Western-style dishes, it’s also a great option for visitors from overseas.”